Monarch Ascending
Baywood Park's new restaurant will have you flying back for more...
By Kathy Marcks Hardesty, New Times

When a chef I respect recommends a new restaurant, I'm quick to check it out. That's how I discovered Papillon in Baywood Park. Chef Maegen Loring, the talent behind the Park Restaurant in San Luis Obispo, earnestly described Papillon as one of the county's best new restaurants. After dining there twice and getting to know the impassioned young couple who opened it, I can say unreservedly that Papillon is a rising star.

Our first meeting was during breakfast, so I asked the chef to suggest a dish that best represented his cuisine. He offered the house specialty he calls the crazy caballero and I couldn't believe the size, it would satisfy a famished cowboy.

During the interview, I was pleased to learn that Lorenzen had the opportunity to work two days with the exceptionally talented chef Frank Mendoza at Seven Hands, an amazing restaurant that no local foodie will forget.

"Working at Seven Hands was an eye-opening experience. It made me see what's possible," Lorenzen recalled.

"I've learned many things through several different teachers that I was fortunate enough to work with," Lorenzen explained, adding that he also worked for the European-trained chef Erich Koberl of Koberl at Blue. "I learned a lifetime lesson about classical cooking techniques there. Erich's a perfectionist."

"All of our friends had something to suggest about how to run our restaurant, and all their ideas conflicted," Wingett said with a gentle laugh. "We envisioned what we wanted and decided it should be a place where you feel comfortable the moment you walk in the door."

I patiently waited one day before rushing back for dinner. Dining there with my husband, Dan, proved a revelation for both of us. We travel often and dine in fine restaurants everywhere, and we were excited about Lorenzen's intriguing and delicious courses. He prepared a chef's tasting of his French-American menu.

Wingett expertly paired each dish with appropriate varietals, creating an unforgettable meal. Her wine list is very well-chosen, and she's kept the prices low.

"We want people to try things, so we kept prices affordable," Wingett said.

Dinner proved to us that Lorenzen has much more than a passion for cooking, he's blessed with the innate talent to create wonderful dishes, the memory of which will draw you back again and again.

"I teach my staff to take a sense of pride in their craft. We're preserving a tradition," Lorenzen concluded. "I want to be the best I can possibly be."

A Bastion of Culinary Bliss
By Jack Beardwood, The Bay News

Those who grieved at the closing of Mare Blu restaurant on Second Street in Baywood Park, fret not. Papillon (butterfly in French), which recently opened in its stead, is truly an outstanding bastion of culinary bliss. 

My partner, Sid, and I were recently treated to a sampling of Papillon’s cuisine. I don’t remember ever having a more enjoyable meal. We left not one bite. All of the wine- and there was plenty- blended perfectly with the food. The desserts- well, don’t get me started.

Following the suggestion of Grace, we assented to a culinary experience of the chef’s own choosing. We had no regrets.

Our server poured Tangent, a Pinot Gris from Edna Valley chosen to complement the appetizer: Grilled bruschetta with pesto mascarpone, roasted garlic and herb marinated tomatoes.

For the main course, Sid had apple cider and pale ale braised pork baby back ribs with roasted shallot potato puree and spiced blackberry compote. “They were very tender and the sauce was very subtle and delicate, not at all overwhelming,” she said. “It was delicious”. 

I had pan roasted wild Alaskan halibut with crispy green garlic and basil risotto, tomato confit and white truffle moren au jus. I savored every bite.

From there, the dessert and dessert wines made us go from high to higher. Sid had Sauternes, Roumieu Lacoste Cuvee Andre ’03 from France, along with the vanilla blood orange crème brulee. I had Robert Hall port ’03 from Paso Robles with delectable profiteroles with vanilla bean ice cream and warm dark chocolate sauce. Devastating.

It’s a good thing we live on Second Street. We were able to stagger home safely.